Aschinger conquers Berlin

Ladies and gentlemen,

You may be familiar with the situation: lunchtime in a big city on a weekday. You're hungry, time is short and your wallet could be a little fuller. Where do you go? Wouldn't it be great if there was a place that was pleasantly decorated, where you were always served quickly and in a friendly manner, that always offered fresh food that was also good and cheap? Where you can always get as many free bread rolls as you like, even if you only order a drink? Does that sound too good to be true? But there was such a place, and not just in one spot in Berlin. If you are now hungry, I will take you on a journey through time and show you how the Aschinger brothers from a small village in Swabia once conquered the German capital in culinary terms.

Brothers from the Swabian province: August and Carl Aschinger

The birth of the modern city

Berlin at the turn of the century. A city becomes a metropolis. The million mark has already been broken and more and more people are flocking to Berlin, as steadily growing industries such as steel, chemical and engineering plants need workers. New means of transport such as the city railway, the Ringbahn and horse-drawn buses bring the masses from A to B every day. Among them are two brothers from Swabia: Carl and August Aschinger. They have been living in the city for several years, working as a chef and waiter, but both dream of something bigger: Their own innovative gastronomic business.

Hustle and bustle: Berlin at the turn of the century

Cheap coffee joints and beer pubs

Where many people live, there is also a great need for places where they can be catered for. At the turn of the century, there was no shortage of pubs and restaurants of varying quality in Berlin, but especially for ordinary working people on a budget, there were usually only smoky beer pubs or schnapps bars with a clear focus on liquid food or so-called Kaffeeklappen (coffee joints), dark and often somewhat dingy shacks where coffee and sandwiches were available for very small amounts, but where nobody wanted to stay for long. The Aschinger brothers discovered a gap in the market in Berlin's pub jungle: A venue where you can get good, affordable food without long waiting times and which is so attractively equipped that you stay for a second glass of beer or at least want to come back again and again. The first establishment opens in 1892, initially simply called Aschinger's 1st Beer Source (German: Aschingers 1. Bierquelle), but the concept quickly became so successful that the brothers opened further branches in Berlin's busiest locations: A business empire was born.

Aschinger's first pub with the typical Bavarian diamond pattern, but inside only Berlin cuisine was served

The Aschinger System

Carl and August Aschinger have not only adapted their business model to the constantly increasing pace of everyday life in the capital, they have also recognised the need to respond specifically to the needs of a modern clientele and thus set themselves apart from the competition. An unprecedented number of freshly tapped beers for a standard 10 pfennigs a glass, appetisingly presented food, free rolls when ordering a drink and a no-tipping policy - a new concept that is rapidly catching on. Aschinger's company motto is The lowest price for the best quality. In order to ensure the best possible control over the food on offer, the brothers risk another coup: over the years, they set up huge food factories in which everything is butchered, baked and cooked by their own employees. Guided tours are even offered where everything can be viewed on site, another clever move by the busy brothers.

A look inside the Aschinger food factory in the 1920s, thousands of bread rolls are produced every day.

An egg cooker that could cook almost 1,000 eggs at the same time was specially designed for the business.

Criticism and early death of the founders

While the Aschingers open one branch after another at every major commercial area in Berlin, their competitors feel threatened by the rapid pace of this growth. At a meeting of the association of innkeepers and gastronomers for Berlin and the surrounding area in 1897 (there were already 25 Aschinger establishments at the time), critical voices speak out loudly against the mass granting of catering licences that the brothers receive. One member of the meeting even describes the brothers' businesses as cancerous, while others call for a fight against the big capital in order to control the overpowering Aschingerei, as it was dismissively called. Despite all the criticism, the brothers successs remains. This did not even change when the two business founders died in 1909 and 1911, aged just 48 and 53.

Years of Crisis

The first major crisis to hit the Aschinger company is undoubtedly the war years of 1914-1918. Although the business remains largely operational, shortages and poor harvests force the company to make drastic changes to its usual lavish range of products and high quality standards. Bread rolls made from substitute flour, thin beer and massive staff cuts are not always well received, but they allow the Aschingers to survive the war. Thanks to the savings and continued high demand, the company is even able to make so much profit that the subsequent years of inflation do not cause the empire to collapse either. After the currency reform of 1923/1924, things pick up again in the following years and the company takes the next step towards growth. Aschinger now also wants to become a hotel giant and acquires a majority stake in some of Berlin's most famous grand hotels. However, these investments soon prove to be too risky and with the running costs of all operations (the organisation of which has become outdated and loss-making in the meantime), the company is already in the midst of the next crisis at the beginning of the 1930s.

Menu from 1934: The poular spoon peas with bacon for 40 pfennigs were very cheap even then.

Restructuring and new advertising strategy

When an economic report examines the Aschinger operations in 1933, it becomes clear how close to ruin the business really is. Radical reorganisation of the individual processes, a more modern accounting system, a tighter management style and the sale of the hotel holdings are intended to bring about the necessary turnaround. The company also wants to generate more sales with a new advertising strategy. A character called Uncle Otto is created, who suddenly disappears in various situations. The question: ‘Where is Uncle Otto?’ is always followed by the answer: ‘He's eating at Aschinger's’.

Advertising figure Uncle Otto is supposed to raise popularity

In addition to the new advertising figure, an in-house, monthly magazine is now also available in the restaurants, which, in addition to amusing entertainment such as crossword puzzles, humorous stories and record and film reviews, also draws guests' attention to current deals such as fish weeks or special breakfast offers. The advertising measures are successful and Aschinger is able to build on its old successes. During the 1936 Olympics in Berlin, the company even achieves record sales.

The end of an empire

After surviving the early death of its founders, a world war, the inflationary period and bad investments, the company still had 30 beer sources, 15 patisseries, 8 restaurants and 20 other outlets, but it would not be able to withstand a second world war. The air raids in the 1940s destroy a large number of businesses, in addition to the confiscation of buildings by the Wehrmacht, a general lack of resources and theft by people in need. The final end comes in 1945 with the capitulation. Only a few Aschinger establishments are still standing after the bombing, and the division of the city makes it virtually impossible to run the company as a single entity. Over the next few decades, a few small outlets manage to survive, but the days of great success are over.

Aschinger in the collective memory

Aschinger is and remains a phenomenon of modern times. The constantly growing, pulsating metropolis of Berlin, millions of people who move around there every day, technological innovations, the idea of progress and a company in the middle of it all that recognises and knows how to use the signs of the times like no other. In the hustle and bustle of the urban jungle, Aschinger is a constant, a place you can visit in both good and bad economic times, because it is frequented by all Berliners from all walks of life.

Aschinger in the German series "Babylon Berlin"

Many people will remember it fondly despite the adversities of history. So I would like to bid you farewell with an excerpt from a short story by Robert Walser, who vividly and humorously describes one of his many stays at Aschinger. I hope I have been able to entertain you and that you may now feel like stopping by your favourite restaurant for a bite to eat. Bon appétit!

A light beer please! I look at the full glass for a moment, take it by the handle with two fingers and carry it carelessly to one of the round tables. I place the oozing glass properly on the felt base and consider whether I should get something to eat or not. The thought of eating drives me to the blue and white striped cutlery lady. This lady serves me a selection of sandwiches on a plate and, thus enriched, I trot back to my seat, feeling quite sluggish. With a second or third glass of light beer in my fist, I'm usually driven to make all kinds of observations. It's a real pleasure to see people fishing for sausage rolls and Italian salads. The place is always teeming with hungry and satisfied people. The unsatisfied quickly find satisfaction at the beer fountain and the warm sausage tower, and the full ones jump back out into the business air, usually with a folder under their arm, a letter in their pocket, an order in their brain, a firm plan in their skull, a watch in their open hand that says it's time now. How long do I actually intend to stay there? The beer boys have a little peace and quiet at the moment, but not for long, because it rolls in again from outside and throws itself thirstily at the bubbling spring.*

*Robert Walser Aschinger, from: Aufsätze (1913), with unmarked omissions for better readability

For further readings I recommend: Karl-Heinz Glaser: Aschingers "Bierquellen" erobern Berlin, Ubstadt Weiher 2004