A stylish guide to the French Riviera

My dear audience,

With the current temperatures, we’re all already thinking about those long-awaited summer holidays, aren’t we? If, like me, you’re one of those people for whom a holiday by the sea is simply a must and who enjoy it in a stylish setting, I have a travel recommendation for you: the French Riviera, the Côte d’Azur. Blue waters, palm trees lining endless seafront promenades, Art Deco façades, cosy restaurants, charming little shops, renowned art museums and much more await you there. Have I piqued your interest? Then why not grab a cool drink and let’s let our minds wander to faraway places!

The Côte d'Azur – a place of longing for aristocrats and artists

The Côte d'Azur has not been a popular holiday destination for only a short time. As far back as the 18th century, European aristocrats valued the area as a winter retreat because of its mild climate. In the 19th and 20th centuries, painters discovered the coast, attributing particularly favourable lighting conditions to the region. Other artists, too, sought new inspiration in the Mediterranean atmosphere. Henri Matisse, Auguste Renoir, Marc Chagall, Pablo Picasso, F. Scott Fitzgerald, Klaus Mann, Bertolt Brecht, Coco Chanel and many others were regular visitors here or lived on the French Riviera, in some cases for many years. When savvy businesspeople began building large, luxurious hotels and casinos in cities such as Nice, Cannes and Monte Carlo, the foundations were laid for the glamorous tourism that continues to stir people’s imaginations to this day.

Coco Chanel (left) with friends on the French Riviera

One of the most prestigious hotels in Nice in the early 20th century: Hotel Ruhl (which, sadly, no longer exists)

Tips for the stylish traveller of today

The city of Nice is highly advisable as a base for today’s stylish traveller, as it is easily accessible from many locations by both plane and train. The city is large, but not too large; it lies right by the sea and has plenty to offer in terms of culture and cuisine, yet prices are not quite as sky-high as in Cannes, which is just a few kilometres away. Palm trees, strelitzias and other exotic plants adorn the cityscape, as do the numerous Art Deco-style building façades.

Art Deco-style building façades in Nice

The best view

If you’ve never been to this French Mediterranean city before, a good place to start is the Colline du Château, a viewpoint from which you can look out over the rooftops of Nice. Once you’ve made it up the steep path, you’ll not only be rewarded with a great view of the city, but you’ll also have the pleasure of discovering Greek mosaics, small grottoes with waterfalls and a beautifully landscaped park – so a trip there is well worth it in many ways!

There is probably no better view of the city than from the Colline du Château

Greek mosaics, palm trees, waterfalls and the wonderful view of Nice

Ice cream and Pastry Shops

If you fancy a refreshment after the steep climb, I can highly recommend the Confiserie Maison Henri Auer. When you step inside this shop, which has been in business since 1820, it’s not just the sumptuous interior that will leave you speechless. You’ll also be amazed by the wide variety of handmade treats on offer. But if you’re not in the mood for chocolate and candied fruit, why not head over to the freezer cabinet, where you’ll find a selection of delicious sorbets that will make your mouth water. Admittedly, there isn’t quite the same huge selection as at Fenocchio, the ice-cream parlour so popular with tourists, but here you won’t have to queue for hours, and you can enjoy very special flavours such as Mirabelle plum and wild strawberry – a real treat!

A uniquely beautiful shop steeped in history: Maison Henri Auer

If your sweet tooth still hasn’t been satisfied by then, I can also recommend Pâtisserie Julien Dugourd, near Place Garibaldi. Here you’ll find classic, buttery brioches, croissants and pains au chocolat, as well as artfully crafted tartlets and special creations such as a lemon which, on closer inspection, turns out to be a sweet treat filled with all sorts of delicacies. Do not miss it!

Top-class patisserie: Julien Dugourd

A small selection: a chocolate and banana tartlet, the lemon pastry and a brioche with coarse sugar

Chagall, Matisse, Picasso

After having had a tasty bite to eat, you might fancy a relaxing visit to a museum. If so, I can recommend two notable venues: the Musée National Marc Chagall and the museum dedicated to Henri Matisse. Both are about a 15-minute walk from each other.

You can admire the dreamlike paintings, with their vibrant shades of blue so characteristic of the artist, at the Musée National Marc Chagall

Here, the building itself is a work of art: the Musée Matisse

If you can’t get enough of art and would like to take a trip into the surrounding area (which is very easy to do by train), you could head to Antibes, just a few kilometres away. There you’ll find the Picasso Museum, which towers over the town like a castle and offers a fabulous view of the sea.

Like a fortress: the Musée Picasso, Antibes

Paintings and sculptures by Pablo Picasso, who himself lived on the French Riviera for many years

Once you’ve had your fill of the works of art by the Master of Cubism, it’s also well worth taking a stroll through the town, which has plenty of lovely (souvenir) shops and cafés, beautifully landscaped little gardens, a harbour (where you can also admire the odd yacht or two) and the famous Juan-les-Pins beach.

A villa of a special kind

Another highly recommended destination is the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild in nearby Cap Ferrat (also accessible by train). Built between 1907 and 1912, this magnificent estate is surrounded by tropical gardens with secluded corners that invite you to linger. All around you is the sparkling blue Mediterranean – a truly heavenly spot!

The Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

Stately interiors, surrounded by magnificent gardens and the sparkling sea

If you’d like to explore more of the area around Nice, as mentioned earlier, you can take a local train (TER). This will take you to places such as Cannes, Antibes, Cagnes-sur-Mer, Monte Carlo (Monaco), Menton and many more. Travelling all the way along the coast, you can even go as far as Italy.

I really hope I’ve managed to share my enthusiasm for the French Riviera with you – in my opinion, it’s always well worth a visit!

Have a lovely summer holiday season!

Yours,

Marleen Tigersee